---
title: I've been getting pretty deep into pattern drafting
date: 2023-09-22T06:18:49.192Z
slug: 2023-09-22-ive-been-getting-pretty-deep-into-pattern-drafting
author: Thomas Wilson

---
I'm going to level with you - I've found myself pretty deep into drafting my own sewing patterns.  

It all started with commercial patterns.  These are pre-made patterns from established designers and companies that are traditionally *graded*.  The patterns come with a set of sizes, to make the garment in, for example, sizes XS-2XL.

But a lot of the commercial patterns available for men sit closer to the *casual* in the smart-casual spectrum.  The more formal patterns don't go down to my size (28" waist, 34" chest).  Funnily enough, this is one of the big reasons that I wanted to learn to make my own clothes: if I want high quality mens tailoring, then Custom Made (whatever that means) really is the only option I have.

If I want to just make (and not design) traditionally male garments, the only option I have is smart-casual patterns made to standard measurements.  

In translating these patterns from their intended  fit and cloth into something more suitable (pun intended) - I found myself quite unhappy with the things I had in front of me. 

For example, I have chunky quads (from a decade of semi-religious commitment to road cycling).  So I found seam allowances on the sides always pulling around to the front.  But I have a pretty normal sized bum (or glutes, or seat, or hips depending on what we're calling it) - so adding cloth in to the legs caused a lot of droop just under my butt-smile.  Do I want a garment that makes me look droopy? 

At this point I start thinking "well really how hard can it be?".  

Smash cut forwards a month, I am using [Seamly2D](https://seamly.io/), an open-source CAD software for fashion design, and the [Aldrich system](https://www.waterstones.com/book/metric-pattern-cutting-for-menswear/winifred-aldrich/9781405182935) for drafting mens' garments.  This is one of legitimately two-to-three formalised systems for drafting the handful of traditionally male garments.  

Side note: why can't we have fun, or at least varied, garments?

But the system for drafting garments gives you only a few of the basic blocks for building e.g. trousers.  What about built-in vs. Separate fly pieces, or welts and pocket facing?  Now I'm having to reverse engineer individual pieces of cloth to fit the custom garment.

It's sort of like yak-shaving, but I'm pretty certain that all the steps along the way are necessary.  Or at least, the least bad option.

